Raspberry Swiss Roll

A Swiss Roll with just raspberry jam is a wonderful thing, but the addition of raspberries and whipped cream takes it right over the top. It's one of those desserts that never fails to impress, looking much more difficult than it is.

The problem I had with the first one I made years ago was with the cake itself. Baking a regular cake in a jelly roll pan is not the way to go. It needs to be a proper sponge cake, and I prefer the kind made with separated eggs.

I used to make the sponge cake with four eggs until I had occasion to try one made with five. When I took it out of the oven, I thought it looked far too eggy, even omelette-like. So when I had my first slice of the finished product, I was surprised at the perfect texture.

Though all recipes for a Swiss Roll seem to call for pre-rolling the cake while it is warm and then unrolling it, filling it and rolling it up again, I've found that's not necessary. I don't do it with my recipe. I just roll it once, at a carefully timed moment, and that's that. I'm going to say that again: I just roll it once!

Update 11/09/17: Try my naturally gluten-free Chocolate-Hazelnut Roulade.

How to Keep A Rolled Cake From Cracking

Cracking when rolled is the main problem people have with a Swiss Roll. There are preventive measures:

• Beating the yolks and whites separately makes a more flexible sponge that is less inclined to crack.

• Not overbaking, baking just until set but still springy to the touch.

• Rolling it while it is still warm enough to be pliable, but not warm enough to melt the whipped cream.

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Raspberry and Cream Swiss Roll

(Makes about 9 servings)

The Sponge Cake

1/2 dip-and-sweep cup (2.5 ounces/71 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (0.5 ounce/14 grams) cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon salt, divided
5 large eggs, separated cold, left at room temperature for 30 minutes
1/2 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
2/3 cup (4.67 ounces/132 grams) sugar, divided
1/4 cup (2 fluid ounces/59 ml) milk
2 tablespoons (1 ounce/28 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

The Filling

1 cup (8 fluid ounces/237 ml) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons (0.5 ounce/14 grams) unsifted powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup raspberry jam, melted
1 cup halved fresh raspberries

1 Preheat oven to 375F/190C/Gas5. Line a 15x10x1-inch (38x25x2.5 cm) rimmed baking sheet (jelly roll pan or Swiss roll tin) with a piece of parchment with an extra 2 inches on each end for easy removal. Spray parchment and sides of pan with cooking spray. In small bowl, sift together flour, cornstarch and half the salt.

2 In bowl of stand mixer fitted with whisk, beat the egg whites, cream of tartar and half the salt on low speed until foamy (might have to use a spoon to mash up clump of cream of tartar). Increase speed to medium and continue beating until trails become visible and bubbles are very small, about 2 to 3 minutes.

3 Increase speed to medium-high and gradually add in 1/3 cup of sugar, about a tablespoon at a time, taking about 2 to 3 minutes. Increase speed a bit and whip until meringue is glossy and medium* peaks form when the whisk is lifted, about 4 to 5 minutes.

* Must beat past soft peaks, but not all the way to stiff peaks.

4 In 2- to 2.5-quart mixing bowl, using an electric hand mixer, beat the egg yolks with remaining 1/3 cup sugar until pale yellow and fluffy; this takes a few minutes. Add the cream, melted butter and vanilla extract; mix until combined.

5 Sift the flour-cornstarch over the egg yolk mixture. With silicone spatula, gently fold the flour in. Then gently fold in the stiff egg whites, a third at a time, being careful not to deflate them.

6 Gently scrape the batter into the prepared jelly roll pan and quickly spread it evenly. Place a towel (or pair of potholders) on the countertop and drop the pan onto it from a height of about 6 inches two or three times to get out the large air bubbles that would make holes in the cake.

7 Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, just until done. A toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean; the cake should spring back when pressed gently in the center.

8 While the cake is baking, whip the cream, powdered sugar and vanilla extract until it is quite stiff. You need to have your filling ingredients ready so that you're ready to proceed the moment the cake is cooled sufficiently but not completely.

9 Use a knife to loosen the sides of the cake from the pan. Using the two ends of parchment paper, lift the cake out of the pan onto a wire rack to cool for a bit. Melt the jam.

10 When the cake is still warm enough to be pliable but not warm enough to melt the whipped cream, take the cake off the wire rack and place it paper-side down on the counter with a short end in front of you. Spread the jam evenly over the cake, leaving about a 1.5-inch border at the far end uncovered. Spread the whipped cream evenly over the jam. Distribute the berries evenly over the whipped cream. 

11 Start rolling the cake at the end nearest you, peeling away the parchment as you go. Wrap the rolled cake in plastic wrap, place on tray seam-side down and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 1 day. Bringing it out of the refrigerator 15 to 30 minutes before serving makes the texture of the cake superb.

12 When ready to serve, trim the ends of the roll for a tidier look (and a cook's treat!), place it on an attractive platter, dust with powdered sugar, garnish as you like.