Tiramisu - A Classic Italian Dessert

Hadn't made tiramisu in a few years, but when a friend asked me to bring a dessert to her Italian-themed dinner, well ... It's my favorite Italian dessert, but I often have to say No to it because so many people make it with raw eggs. Not a problem for many people, but it is for me. So if I am craving tiramisu, I have to make it myself.

It's one of those desserts that never fails to impress because people seem to think it's difficult. But it's really easy (though not what you'd call quick), so I'm going to start making it more often. Sure, cooking the egg yolks is an extra step, but no problem. And I have a number of uses for the egg whites, so they won't go to waste: Angel Food Loaf Cake, Financiers and Visitandines, my Wonderful White Cupcakes (the 6 egg whites will make a double batch).

Sooooo sorry there are no photos this time. Yet. Never in my 15 years of blogging (Yes, I just had my 15th blogiversary this month!), never, have I put up a post without photos! But time got away from me and I wasn't going to be able to do any individual serving photos because I wasn't serving it at home, so ... But I'll be making up a half-recipe soon and will take photos and add them to the post. In the meantime, if you read every word, you'll be able to picture it in your mind. It's pretty!

As you can see now, a week or so later, I've made a half-batch of my recipe and taken photos! Yay, me!

If you've ever made zabaglione or sabayon, it's the same process. But I'll include the step-by-step in the directions below for those who haven't. The store-bought Italian savoiardi ladyfinger cookies are a must. They are crunchy, unlike "regular" ladyfingers that you can make or buy in some grocery stores. Those ladyfingers will get soggy in a tiramisu.

Not finding any locally, I turned to Amazon and found these Italian savoiardi ladyfingers that turned out to be the perfect choice. The package contains 5 individual packages of 12. Their size means that 20 of them make a perfect layer in my Pyrex 13x9x2-inch baking dish, and my recipe calls for 2 layers, leaving 20 cookies for another use, like enjoying with a cup of tea or making a half-recipe.

For the half-recipe, I used this Pyrex 11-cup rectangular storage dish with lid, which took precisely all 20 of my leftover ladyfingers!

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Tiramisu 

(Makes one 13x9x2-inch cake/16 servings)

6 large egg yolks, whites reserved for another use

2 8-ounce (total 16 ounces/454 grams) containers mascarpone 

3 cups (24 fluid ounces/710 ml) double-strength coffee

3 tablespoons (1.5 fluid ounce/44 ml) coffee liqueur, optional

2/3 cup (4.67 ounces/132 grams) sugar

2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce/30 ml) rum or coffee liqueur, optional

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups (12 fluid ounces/355 ml) heavy whipping cream, very cold

About 40 savoiardi biscuits or ladyfingers (or enough to make 2 layers)*

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, divided

* Savoiardi biscuits and ladyfingers come in various sizes, so before you start, see how many it takes to make a layer of them in your 13x9x2 baking dish, if you don't already know. And, double it, of course, because there are two layers.

 

1 Make the day before; it needs to chill for at least 8 hours or so and up to a bit over 24 (my preference). It is easier to separate eggs while they are cold. Break the eggs, putting the whites in a small bowl to store in the refrigerator for another purpose and the yolks in the heatproof bowl you'll be cooking them in. I use the 1.5-quart in this Pyrex mixing bowl set. Cover the bowl and allow the yolks to warm up a bit. Also, bring out the mascarpone and put it in a larger mixing bowl. I use the 2.5-quart Pyrex mixing bowl. Let both items come to room temperature, 30 minutes to not more than 1 hour.

2 In a 1-quart bowl just wide enough to dip horizontally whatever ladyfingers you're using, stir together the double-strength coffee and coffee liqueur. 

Note: Making 3 cups of coffee mixture will leave you with a little left over (cook's treat!), but you'll need to make 3 cups for, well, dipping purposes. It really depends on the shape of your bowl. Measure how much coffee mixture you have left over, and reduce by nearly that amount next time you make it.

 

3 In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, bring an inch or so of water to a simmer. The water must not be deep enough to touch the bottom of the heatproof glass or stainless bowl you'll be cooking the egg mixture in. 

4 With a whisk or a hand mixer on low speed, beat the yolks just until smooth. Add the sugar and rum or coffee liqueur (if using); whisk until the mixture becomes pale yellow. Place the bowl over the saucepan of gently simmering water. Whisk gently or beat with a hand mixer on low speed until thickened and registering 160 to 175F/71 to 79C on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from heat immediately and whisk in the vanilla extract and salt. Scrape the custard into another bowl (a chilled bowl might be nice!) to help it cool. Continue to cool for 15 minutes or so to room temperature.

5 Stir the mascarpone just a bit. Pour the room temperature egg yolk mixture into the mascarpone; whisk gently just until combined.

6 In a separate chilled bowl (yes, there are 3 mixing bowls involved in this!), whip the cream until it reaches stiff peaks. Add the whipped cream, a third at a time, to mascarpone mixture, folding gently with a silicone spatula so as not to knock the air out of it.

7 Now it's time to assemble. One ladyfinger at a time, form the first layer, giving each ladyfinger a quick horizontal dip in the coffee on both sides (just half a second per side or they will be soggy). Evenly spread on half the mascarpone cream. Smooth the top and sift 1 tablespoon the unsweetened cocoa powder evenly over the cream. Add a second layer of quickly dipped ladyfingers. Top with remaining mascarpone cream. Smooth the top, clean the edge of the dish, and cover the baking dish. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight, up to 24 hours or so.

8 When ready to serve, sift the remaining cocoa powder evenly on top. This is a rich dessert, so I cut it into 16 squares. When I made the half-batch I cut it into 12 even smaller squares and used this handy set of two small spatulas to serve it. 

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support. 

Jean 

Classic Deviled Eggs - Party Food

Deviled eggs (or devilled if you're in the UK) are a classic party food. Have you ever been to a barbecue, picnic or potluck that didn't have at least a few batches of deviled eggs? There's a reason for that: everybody loves them! Some people say, it's not a party until you break out the deviled eggs!

And over the years I've filled, transported, and served deviled eggs many ways. I think I've got it down now! I used to get out the pastry bag and tips and get really fancy when I was filling them. I'm so over that! So I switched to a spoon a few years ago and then, just lately, to a perfect small scoop! Yes, that's the way to go! 

I use the lovely glass egg plate pictured here to serve them at home or to take to a more formal event, but gone are the days when I transport them in a storage container then transfer them to an egg plate when I get there. When I found this clear "egg organizer" online, I knew this was the answer!

Just used it to take 2 dozen deviled eggs to a casual gathering. It was perfect. Just pop the lid off and set it on the table, and it looks fine. Sorry I didn't get a photo, but I had a lot going on that day and just couldn't be bothered. Check out the link and see it there. One of the photos shows it on a table and you can see how unobtrusive the container looks. 

There are several ways to boil (hard-cook) the eggs, some of which are supposed to be vastly superior to the others; but I'm not even going there, except to say that the best way is whatever works for you. I'm just including one method, in the directions, and leaving it up to you to sort out.

I'm only going to comment on the degree of doneness because, well, they need to be actually done. As you may know, I adore Jacques Pepin, but he and I don't see eye to eye on this subject. I say a hard-cooked egg yolk should be yellow and matte, and he says it should be orange and shiny. That's just wrong!

What's your favorite thing to take to a bring-a-dish sort of gathering? (Mr Delightful would say, "My cavernous appetite!")

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Classic Deviled Eggs

(Makes 24)

12 large eggs
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons country Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1/8 teaspoon curry powder
1/8 teaspoon dill
Garnishes (fresh dill, pimiento slivers, stuffed olive slices, minced parsley or paprika)

1 Place eggs in a single layer in large pan. Add enough room temperature water to cover eggs completely and an inch or two over. Bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as water is bubbling enough to make even one egg rattle, remove pan from the heat and cover tightly with the lid. Let stand for 14 minutes. Drain and add cold water to pan; repeat twice. Leave eggs to cool for 15 minutes in cold water. Drain, and proceed with recipe or refrigerate until ready to use.

2 Peel the eggs, cut them in half lengthwise and remove the yolks. Place egg whites on a plate and yolks in a 1-quart bowl.

Note: Here is a link to my Tahini Chicken Tea Sandwiches post about the very best knife for cleanly cutting hard-boiled eggs in half (and many, many more things!).

3 With a fork, mash yolks well. Add mayonnaise, mustard and seasonings; mix well. Taste and adjust seasoning. The filling needs to be more strongly flavored than you might think because the egg white is not. I'm thinking of salting the egg white halves next time. Does anyone do that?

4 Using a spoon or a pastry bag (Pfft!) or small scoop (Yay!) fill the egg halves. Garnish. Chill until serving time in a handy-dandy clear egg organizer!

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support. 

Jean

Pasta Salad - Big Batch

This big-batch pasta salad has become my go-to dish for large gatherings. It's always a hit. Last weekend I had planned to make it for a memorial reception that ended up being postponed, but I went ahead and made it in honor of my friend who had been known for cooking in quantity. I remember cooking with her at one of her large parties when she made boeuf bourguignon with 15 pounds of beef. Like me, she had the big pans to get the job done. Anyway ...

I didn't know what I was going to do with all of it, but went ahead, thinking of her with lots of smiles as well as tears. So giving some to ailing friends and others *and* eating it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, none went to waste! I mix it up in the same pot I boil the pasta in, a fairly lightweight 7- or 8-quart stainless pot. You know I love my Le Creuset dutch ovens, but they are far too heavy to lift and drain pasta with the lid ajar. Everyone needs a (relatively) lightweight, (relatively) inexpensive 8-quart pot for pasta and stock.

Looking at my recipe, you might wonder why I don't make a separate dressing. I never do for pasta or potato salad. I subscribe to my mother's theory that, for the best flavor, you need to "layer" the ingredients as you go along. So I add the extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and seasonings at several points in the recipe. (Just thought how much my friend and my mother would have loved each other had they ever met. 🥹)

And, remember, as always with pasta salads, you'll have to add more dressing ingredients just before serving. 

Well, off I go. Making time to paint this morning. Before the day gets away from me. I hope you'll leave a comment and let me know whether you make a separate dressing or "dress" and season as you go. Oh, and you can cut this recipe (which makes two 4-quart bowls like the one in the photos) in half if you're not feeding a crowd. 

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Pasta Salad

(Serves 20)

1 1/2 1-pound packages (24 ounces/680 grams) rotini pasta
1 15-ounce (425 grams) can garbanzo beans, drained well
3/4 cup (6 fluid ounces/177 ml) extra virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces/118 ml) balsamic vinegar, divided
1/4 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced lengthwise (1/2 cup)
2 6- to 7.5-ounce jar quartered marinated artichoke hearts, drained well
2 8-ounce packages fresh mushrooms, sliced
Salt and coarsely-ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 10-ounce (283 grams) bag shredded carrots
1 large red bell pepper, julienned
1 large yellow bell pepper, julienned
1/2 3-ounce package (1.5 ounces/43 grams) julienned sun-dried tomatoes, plumped in a little hot water
12 to 16 ounces zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced
1/2 teaspoon marjoram
1 cup (4 ounces/113 grams) shaved Parmesan
18 fresh basil leaves (or 0.66-ounce package), thinly sliced

Day before:

1 In 7- to 8-quart stockpot, start boiling salted water (2 teaspoons salt and 4 quarts water) for pasta. Meanwhile, in large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and start slowly cooking sliced onion. (Another 8-quart stockpot)

2 Cook pasta according to package directions; drain in colander and return to cooking pot. Add 1 can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained. Stir into pasta 1/4 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Add onions to pasta, along with artichoke hearts.

3 Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to skillet and cook mushrooms, seasoning with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper and 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Add cooked mushrooms to pasta, along with sun-dried tomatoes, shredded carrots, julienned bell peppers, 1/4 cup balsamic, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper.

4 Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to skillet and cook zucchini, seasoning with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper, 1/2 teaspoon marjoram, and 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce.

Before serving:

5 Add Parmesan and fresh basil to pasta. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add 3 tablespoons more olive oil and balsamic vinegar if pasta has absorbed all the dressing. And more, if needed.

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support. 

Jean

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Namak Para - Salt Pieces - An Indian Snack

I had never heard of Namak Para - Salt Pieces until one afternoon at the home of friends, one of whom is from India. As we sat down to tea, I noticed among the treats a little dish of something I'd never seen before. When I heard the name Salt Pieces I thought, I'm just not hearing that right. It must be an Indian name. But, no, Salt Pieces was the English name.

They're rather unusual, to the uninitiated, but quite addictive. I found myself reaching for that little bowl again and again and knew this would be my next experiment in the kitchen. In the meantime, they gave us a box of them. The label indicated carom seeds (ajwain) as the main spice ingredient. Having none on hand, I tried to come up with a combination from my spice rack that would stand in for it. I've listed them here. And I can always pay a visit to my local spice shop to pick up some ajwain to try next time. 

The first batch I made did not taste particularly salty, and something called "Salt Pieces" should be noticeably salty, I should think; so I added an extra 1/8 teaspoon to the recipe to correct that deficiency.  

Namak Para is usually fried, but I prefer baking over frying so thought I'd try a baked version. Some people use vegetable oil, others use ghee. Since I avoid refined oils and only ever have organic unsalted butter and extra virgin olive oil on hand, I thought I'd go with the ghee. Of course, you can buy ghee. But that would have involved a trip out to get it, so I made my own. It's simply Beurre Noisette (Brown Butter) with the milk solids removed, and I've put the directions below. 

I'm certainly no expert—this is only the fifth Indian recipe I have developed—so I'd love to hear your comments and any suggestions you might have. Here are the other recipes: Chicken Tikka Masala, Dal Makhani, Slow Cooker Chicken Tikka Masala, and Naan. 

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Namak Para - Salt Pieces

(Makes about 6 dozen)

1 cup (5 ounces/142 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour (maida)

OR use half unbleached and half whole wheat flour (atta) 

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt 

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon carom seeds (ajwain) OR

1/16 teaspoon each anise seed, celery seed, ground coriander, ground cumin, oregano, and thyme

3 tablespoons ghee*, melted (or melted unsalted butter) 

4 to 6 tablespoons (2 to 3 fluid ounces/59 to 89 ml) water

This is the ghee when hot from the pan; it changes color,
lightens, as it cools and solidifies.

* Ghee is useful for so many things, I made a little 1-cup batch of it. You can just use melted butter if you like, but if you want to make the ghee it only takes 10 minutes. In a 10- or 12-inch stainless steel skillet (the shiny interior allows you to judge the color of the butter as it browns) over medium-high heat, melt 2 sticks (8 ounces/227 grams) of unsalted butter that you've cut into 8 slices each, about 2 to 3 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring with a silicone spatula and/or swirling the pan, until it smells nutty and is dark golden brown, about 6 minutes. The time varies according to your stove, so pay attention. You can't take your eyes off it; it can go from brown to black in a flash. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass measuring cup, to get rid of much of the foam and milk solids. Skim off any remaining foam. Clean the sieve and then strain the butter again into a half-pint canning jar, pouring slowly to leave the remaining milk solids behind. The color changes, lightens, as the ghee cools and solidifies.

1  In 1.5- to 2-quart mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and spices. Pour in the melted ghee and rub the flour between your palms for a minute or two until the fat is well incorporated into the flour and the mixture looks like breadcrumbs. Press some of the mixture together in your hand; it should hold together and not crumble.  

2 With your hand, mix in 4 tablespoons (2 fluid ounces/59 ml) of water. Add only as much more water as needed to form a stiff dough (I used a total of a little over 5 tablespoons). Taste the dough and add more salt and spices if needed. 

Note: The dough should be stiff but pliable, neither too soft or sticky nor too dry and crumbly.

3 Knead it for just a minute or so (with no added flour) to form a sort-of-smooth dough; don't overdo it. Cover (if your mixing bowl has no lid, just turn your bowl upside-down over the dough) and rest the dough for 30 minutes. During last 10 minutes, preheat oven to 375F/190C/Gas5 and line baking sheet with parchment paper. 

4 On surface lightly dusted with flour, roll out the dough to a rectangle about 10 by 13 inches and about 1/8 inch (3 to 4 mm) thick. Using a straight edge and pizza wheel or knife, cut the dough into 1-inch wide strips and then cut pieces 1.5-inches long. 

5 Lay the pieces out on the parchment-lined 18x13x1-inch half sheet pan. Bake for about 10 to 15 minutes, checking for doneness after 10 minutes (mine took 15 minutes). Transfer the pieces, still on the parchment, to a wire rack; cool completely before storing in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks at room temperature. 

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support. 

Jean

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Peach Pie with Lattice Crust

Peach pie with a lattice crust is my all-time favorite pie. So when asked to bring a dessert to a friend's dinner party, I knew right away what that dessert was going to be. I mean this is August, right? 

I found the most wonderful peaches at a chain supermarket of all places. The young man working in the produce department was arranging the "large yellow peaches" display when I walked in. I asked a question and he was off and running. Said these were really good peaches, he'd been buying them for his mother every week. 

Hmm. I had my doubts and was prepared to go to two more distant stores to get the best yellow peaches. But I smiled and picked one up, noting that it did not have green shoulders around the stem end (green shoulders are not a good sign), so I gave it a sniff and could actually smell it. There are one or two varieties that don't give off their aroma like that, but most varieties do when they are really good. So I took home four pounds of them and set them on the kitchen counter to further develop for three days till the day of the dinner party.

Generally speaking, if you pick up a peach that has green shoulders (which means it was picked too soon) and no fragrance, you might as well just buy a bag of fuzzy balls of styrofoam as those peaches. And I always look for the ones with a deep red flush. It doesn't make them taste better, but I don't peel the peaches and that crimson blush looks so pretty in the pie. 

You don't have to do the lattice for the top crust, but it's sort of traditional with peach pie. If you haven't done a lattice crust, try it; it's really easy and I've put the directions in the recipe below. I used to always use five strips of dough in both directions, but I decided to do this one with four wider ones. Kinda like it! What is your favorite summer pie? 

PS The pie was a huge hit at the dinner party. Turns out peach pie was the hosts' favorite pie!

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Peach Pie

(Makes one 9-inch pie, 8 servings)

Pastry for double-crust pie (Click and scroll for the pastry and another wonderful fruit pie!)

2 1/2 pounds (about 5 large/40 ounces/1.13 kg) perfectly ripe yellow peaches

1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup (3.5 ounces/99 grams) sugar
1/4 dip-and-sweep cup (1 ounce/29 grams) tapioca flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon (No, that's not a typo!)
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger (I want you to taste the peaches!)

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter

1 Preheat oven to 425F/220C/Gas7. On lightly floured square of parchment paper, roll out one disk of dough to a 13x11-inch rectangle about 1/8 inch thick. (Save the plastic it was wrapped in; you'll be using it again.) At this point, it's best to chill the dough for a few minutes in the freezer or several minutes in the refrigerator. Then, with a straight edge* and a knife or pizza wheel, and the long side of the dough facing you, cut the dough into 8 even strips about 1 1/2 inches wide. Transfer, on the parchment, to a rimless baking sheet, cover with the reserved plastic wrap or parchment, and refrigerate while proceeding.  

* There are so many uses for a sturdy straight edge in the kitchen. Years ago, pre-Amazon, a friend and I were taking cake decorating classes and needed an 18-inch ruler for leveling the icing. Went to the hardware store and all they had was yardsticks, so I bought one and had Mr Delightful cut it in half (and smooth out the cut edges) for us. I use it all the time! Fortunately, Amazon has this 18-inch aluminum ruler.

2 On a lightly floured surface, roll out second disk of dough to a 13-inch circle. Line the 9-inch glass pie plate with pastry, fitting it down into the plate without stretching it, and trimming the overhang to about 3/4 inch. Cover and refrigerate while preparing filling.

3 Peel peaches (or not)* and cut into 1-inch chunks into a large bowl (I use a 2-quart glass measure). You'll have about 6 cups of peaches. (I cut them like this: Quarter peach, cut each quarter into 2 to 4 wedges, depending on the size of the peaches, and cut wedges in half.) In a small bowl, whisk together sugar, tapioca flour (vastly superior to cornstarch or any other thickener for fruit pies), salt and spices; add to peaches and mix gently but well. Pour into pie shell. Cut the tablespoon of butter into little dice and spread them over the surface of the peaches.

* I implore you, please try NOT peeling. You'll never go back! Just do a thorough job of washing the peaches and getting all the excess fuzz off as you dry them.

4 Lay 2 strips of dough across the pie in one direction, centered, about 1/2 inch apart. Then lay the 2 outer strips about 1/2 inch from the center strips. Fold back every other strip halfway and, again, place a long strip of dough 1/4 inch from the center going the other way. Unfold the folded strips over the crossing strip. Place the second center strip in the same way. Repeat with the 2 outer strips. Press the overhanging strips against the bottom crust, then trim them even with the bottom crust and crimp the edge.

Note: If your kitchen is warm and your dough is getting warm, you'll get a better crimp if you pop the whole thing in the freezer for a few minutes or in the refrigerator for several minutes.

5 Place the pie on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips (There will be drips!), and place it in the preheated oven. Bake at 425F/220C/Gas 7 for 25 minutes. Lower temperature to 350F/180C/Gas 4, and bake for an additional 40 to 45 minutes (juices should be bubbling). Cool on wire rack for a minimum of 4 hours before serving. Use a pie crust shield to prevent overbrowning the edge. I put it on when it's time to lower the temperature.

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support. 

Jean

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