Victoria Sponge - An English Teatime Classic

Victoria Sponge just might be the next big baking trend! Not. You know I can't be bothered with all that nonsense: cupcakes versus whoopie pies versus cake pops versus macarons. Let the bandwagons roll by! In or out, trendy or passé, the only thing I care about is how well something goes with a cup of tea.

Victoria Sponge, named after the Queen, is an English classic that goes perfectly with a good cup of tea. My strong preference for jam and cream rather than thick sugary frostings is, I always supposed, an English thing I inherited from my mother and her mother. We never sweetened the whipped cream for this cake, but you can if you like.

And do use the highest quality raspberry or strawberry jam or preserves you can find, since it is such a huge part of the cake. The only homemade jam I have left is peach (and that just won't do for this), so I had to use store-bought. I love Cascadian Farm Organic Raspberry Fruit Spread. This recipe takes about a third of a 10-ounce jar.

When I was a little girl reading my mother's English cookery books, all the cakes were 7 inches* instead of the usual 8 or 9 we see in American cookbooks.These days the English, too, are making larger cakes. But I like small wedges of cake for afternoon tea, so I always split and fill one 7-inch round layer rather than sandwiching two layers. Since Victoria sponge contains butter it isn't a true sponge, so the cake freezes quite well. Just double the cake recipe and freeze one layer for another occasion. (I just baked one this time because I couldn't find the second pan!)

For my readers in the UK, I have a British Conversions page (see the link on the horizontal menu bar). But just for fun, I included them in this recipe. If you're not from the UK, call up your inner Anglophile and make this lovely cake. Just looking at it makes me want to give a garden fete!

Victoria Sponge

(Makes one 7-inch/18-cm round layer)

3/4 dip-and-sweep cup plus 1 tablespoon (4 ounces/110 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (4 ounces/113 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup (3.5 ounces/99 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract (essence)
2 large eggs, beaten
1/4 cup (2 fluid ounces/60 ml) milk

1/3 cup raspberry or strawberry jam or preserves 
3/4 cup (6 fluid ounces/175 ml) heavy whipping cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract (essence)
Powdered sugar (icing sugar)

1 Preheat oven to 350F/180C /Gas4. Butter well and lightly flour one 7-inch layer pan (18-cm sandwich tin). In small bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt.

2 In medium bowl, with electric mixer (electric hand whisk), cream butter. Butter must be very, very soft to start with. If you didn't get the butter out 3 hours ago, don't try to make this cake. Add sugar and vanilla, and continue creaming until light and fluffy. While beating, slowly drizzle in beaten eggs. Continue beating until light and fluffy. With large metal spoon, fold in the flour mixture after sifting it over the batter. Stir in the milk. You may not need the entire 1/4 cup; batter should be rather stiff, of a consistency to drop from the spoon.

3 Pour into prepared pan/tin. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Do not underbake.

4 Cool in pan on wire rack for 5 minutes. Remove from pan and cool on rack for an hour.

5 Not long before serving, whip cream and vanilla (and not more than 2 teaspoons of sugar, if you really must!) until stiff. As you can see in the photo, I go a little crazy with the cream; you could probably just use 1/2 cup. Split cake and spread bottom half with jam and top half with whipped cream. Put top half in place and sprinkle with powdered sugar (icing sugar). Cut into 6 or 8 wedges.

* A 7-inch cake pan might be unusual to Americans; but since that was the "English" thing, I of course had to have the 7-inch tins. I've had mine forever. Now, as then, they can be a bit hard to find. Order here: Parrish Magic Line 7 x 2 Inch Round Aluminum Cake Pan.

Note: A couple of readers just told me their ovens are out of order just now, so I've added this recommendation: Cuisinart TOB-195 Exact Heat Toaster Oven Broiler, Stainless.

Peach Pie - Freezing Peach Pie Filling

Peach pie is something I wouldn't be having in April had I not frozen some of the luscious organic peaches I got last summer. If you've been reading Delightful Repast for very long, you know I love peaches but refuse to buy the out-of-season imports no matter how much I'm craving a peach.

Last July and August I enjoyed flavorful organic peaches every way I could think of -- peach pie, peach shortcake, peach jam, peach cobbler, peach crumble, just plain peaches. I imagined how wonderful it would be to have a peach pie in the middle of winter, so I froze them pie-ready.

When I was young (decades ago!), my parents had an apple tree. And one day when we were drowning in apples, my mother and I got the brilliant idea of freezing them pie-ready. We had four pie plates and we lined each with a big piece of foil, then stirred up four batches of apple pie filling and poured them into the foil-lined pie plates, folded the foil over the apples and set the pie plates in the freezer. Once the pie filling was frozen, we removed the foil-wrapped filling from the pie plates and stacked the tidy packages in the freezer. And repeated the procedure many times!

So last August I did the same with peaches, but on a much smaller scale, of course. Then any time I wanted peach pie, I just stirred up some pie dough and got the pie filling out of the freezer. It's been wonderful, but now I'm down to the last two and it will probably be another fourteen weeks before I can get my hands on some really good peaches. Wish I'd frozen a couple more!

If you're a peach pie aficionado like me, be sure to do this next peach season. Here's the recipe for Peach Pie with Lattice Crust. And here's the pastry (below). Or try my Gluten-Free Pie Crust. Just scroll down for the recipe and double it for a two-crust pie.

Pastry for Double-Crust 9-Inch Pie (food processor* method)

2 1/2 packed cups (12.5 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and frozen for 10 minutes
2 tablespoons lemon juice or cider vinegar
Ice water to make 3/4 cup liquid

1 With metal blade in place, add flour, salt and baking powder to work bowl of food processor. Turn on for three seconds to combine. Add half the frozen butter and process for 10 seconds or until mixture has the consistency of coarse meal. Add remaining butter and pulse for six 1-second pulses, or until the frozen butter is the size of small peas.

2 In 3/4-cup measure, combine lemon juice and ice water. Pour over all of flour mixture; pulse for six 1-second pulses or just until dough forms large clumps; do not over-process. (The amount of water you will need depends on your climate and the moisture content of your flour. You may not need to use quite as much water as I do.)

3 Turn dough out onto work surface. Divide dough into two balls. Place each ball on a piece of plastic wrap and flatten slightly into a 4-inch round disk; double wrap; refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to three days. (Let thoroughly chilled dough stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before rolling.)

* I have the DLC-10E, which (understandably after all this time--I've had it since I was very young) is no longer available. See Cuisinart DLC-2009CHB Prep 9 9-Cup Food Processor, Brushed Stainless and other currently available models.

Pan-Seared Ribeye Steaks - Rocky Mountain Organic Meats

Ribeye steak is my all-time favorite steak. I don't eat meat every day and I don't like to eat ridiculous quantities of it, so I've always preferred a nicely trimmed ribeye, about 8 ounces and about an inch thick (makes two meals for me!). 

And since, ideally, I would be a vegetarian instead of the flexitarian that I am, I prefer to have meat that has been organically, ethically, humanely and sustainably produced. (I hope my vegetarian and vegan readers will pass this post along to their omnivore friends.)

When I "met" Rod Morrison of Rocky Mountain Organic Meats on Twitter, I looked into the company and learned that their beef and lamb are 100% grass-fed, grass-finished and certified organic. No hormones. No antibiotics. No grain. No GMO feed. No irradiation. No feedlots where deadly antibiotic-resistant bacteria thrive. Passionate about sustainable and organic agriculture and livestock production, Rod is dedicated to environmentally friendly agriculture practices, healthy land stewardship and--most important to me--the ethical treatment of animals. The animals are allowed to roam free and are treated humanely.

While two of the steaks thawed (they are shipped frozen from Wyoming), I pondered pan sauces and checked to see if I had on hand all the ingredients needed for my simple shallot pan sauce. Once the meat goes in the pan, you have to pay close attention--making mise en place (having all ingredients ready) crucial to steak cooking.

A lot of people either broil or grill their steaks and have never cooked one in a frying pan, thinking it would just ruin a good piece of meat. So I'm going to write out really detailed instructions for making a great-tasting skillet steak, something I learned from my mother. This one (in the photo) is cooked medium. How do you like your steaks?

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Pan-Seared Ribeye Steaks with Shallot Pan Sauce                                                            

(Serves 2)

1 medium shallot, finely minced (about 2 tablespoons)

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce (Lea & Perrins)
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley
1/8 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces
1 or 2 teaspoon(s) extra virgin olive oil
2 boneless ribeye steaks, 1 inch thick, about 8 ounces each, room temperature
Salt
Coarsely ground black pepper

1 Get sauce ingredients ready before starting steaks. Now I know this doesn't sound like much sauce. It isn't supposed to be. It's just a tiny bit of sauce for each steak, enough to accent the flavor of the beef without overpowering it. Trust me, it's the way to go!

2 Heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until very hot, about 3 minutes. Add the oil, not much, just enough to coat the bottom of the pan.

3 Thoroughly dry steaks with paper towels and season both sides with salt and lots of pepper. The oil should be shimmering in the hot pan.

4 Place steaks in the pan, with space between them. Cook over medium-high heat, not moving steaks, until well browned, about 5 minutes. Using tongs, turn steaks; cook 5 minutes. Turn steaks again and reduce heat to medium and continue cooking for 4 minutes (or 2 for medium rare, 6 for medium well to well done). Turn once more and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer steaks to plate, tent with foil, and let rest 5 minutes or so while making the sauce.

5 As soon as steaks are removed, add shallots to pan and cook over low heat until softened, about 1 minute or so. Turn heat to medium-low; stir in Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, mustard, parsley and pepper, scraping up browned bits. Add accumulated juices from platter. Add butter, whisking constantly until melted. Spoon over steaks and serve immediately. 

Jean

Afternoon Tea Review - Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara

Afternoon tea is something I happen to know a bit about; so when I don my hat and set out, my expectations are high. A recent visit to Santa Barbara, California, included an afternoon set aside for tea at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore. This Five Diamond Award hotel is a Santa Barbara landmark. Built in 1927 in the classic Spanish colonial style typical of Santa Barbara, it sits next to the ocean (Butterfly Beach, Montecito) amidst lush landscaping with a tropical feel.

Afternoon tea is served Fridays and Saturdays in the Bella Vista Restaurant. With its retractable glass conservatory roof giving one the pleasures of open-air dining without any of its (sometimes) attendant discomforts, the dining room's ambience might be described as California Casual Chic. A wall of windows gives diners expansive views of the Pacific Ocean from nearly every spot in the room.

The service was friendly and attentive but unobtrusive--no hovering, but always there when needed. The table was set with white napkins, but they were replaced with black ones for those of us wearing black so that no white lint would mar our clothes. That is just the sort of attention to detail that makes afternoon tea an "experience" rather than just a meal.

The sandwiches, more substantial than one often finds, are works of art. Many's the time I have been disappointed by the sandwich course at places I've had tea--dry bread, bad bread, dull fillings, unattractive. Not the case here. Even the toughest tea sandwich critic in my party, the one who always finds fault with the sandwiches wherever she goes (except my house!), loved these sandwiches.

I am often unhappy with the scones when I go out for tea. These scones, one currant and one plain, were delightful. Not too sweet, not too fluffy, not dry, no off flavors from questionable ingredients. The scones were accompanied by strawberry jam, whipped cream and lemon curd. One of my party was a bit disappointed to not have clotted cream, but I actually sometimes prefer the unsweetened whipped cream.

The array of desserts had something for everyone. My favorites were the apple tart, madeleine and pistachio cookie. My guests were happy to take my chocolate tart and chocolate eclair, since I'm not a chocolate fan. I ended the delightful repast with an extra sandwich or two and more Darjeeling tea.

For reservations, call 805-565-8203 (1260 Channel Drive, Santa Barbara, about 2 hours from LAX).

For tea at home, see: How to Make a Proper Cup of Tea and Tea and Scones. Also, my review of the Zojirushi Water Boiler and Warmer, something in constant use in my house!

Vegetarian Shepherd's Pie

How I came to make my famous vegetarian shepherd's pie (shepherdless pie) this week: I was visiting Foodbat.com the other day and reading about her taking an extra beef tongue off her friend's hands ("How can one say no?"). Even though her motto is "Exploration is delicious," she chickened out and threw it in the freezer. Made pork chops instead.

Well, I can't help her! I would have said no to anyone trying to palm off a spare tongue on me. You see, I was exposed to tongue early in life. Unlike many children, I was a fairly adventurous eater and I would at least taste most everything. But whenever my mother cooked tongue, only she and her mother would eat it. I had to fall in with the more picky eaters on those occasions. It might be perfectly delicious, but I wouldn't know and I never will!

I was just a toddler when I began hanging out in the kitchen with my mother and grandmothers, eager to watch and learn. Well, I kept my eyes closed when it came to the beef tongue. So I can't give Foodbat any tips. She's on her own. No, wait, I can help! I can put her in touch with a man in England who is sure to know all about it, Le Charcutier Anglais.

All that talk about tongue has put me off my feed! I'll be vegetarian all week now! I'm all about "comfort food," but foods like tongue make me distinctly uncomfortable! (Discomfort Food, anyone?) So my shepherd's pie this week is made with lentils instead of beef, turkey or lamb. Hope you'll try it and let me know how you like it. (And, if you happen to be a beef tongue aficionado, I hope I haven't offended you!)

Update 06/27/16: You can make vegetarian freezer meals of this just as I did with Shepherd's Pie Freezer Meals.

Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie - Shepherdless Pie

(Serves 6-8)

1 2/3 cups dried green lentils
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 cups water
4 pounds potatoes (I use organic russets)
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup diced onion
1 1/2 cups diced carrots
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
1 or 2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce
1 teaspoon marjoram
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups frozen peas

4 ounces (1 stick) butter
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup grated Cheddar

1 In 3-quart saucepan, bring lentils, salt and water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, loosely covered, until tender. Cooking time may take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the variety and the age of the lentils (I cooked these for 40 minutes--the package said 30). When they are done, there will be just a little water left. Drain it off and reserve it for another use.

2 Pare the potatoes, and rinse and quarter them. Put them in a 3-quart saucepan; add salt and cold water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, loosely covered, about 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender.

3 In the meantime, prepare filling. In 12-inch skillet, heat olive oil and cook chopped onion for 10 minutes. Add diced carrots and cook an additional 10 minutes. Sprinkle vegetables with flour and cook, stirring, until flour is absorbed, about 3 minutes. Stir in diced tomatoes, soy sauce and seasonings. Stir in cooked lentils. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Remove from heat and stir in frozen peas. Set aside.

4 Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Drain and mash potatoes. Stir in butter, milk, salt, pepper and cheese.

5 Spray 13x9x2-inch baking dish with vegetable cooking spray. Line bottom of dish with half the mashed potatoes, cover with all the filling, top with remaining potatoes. Fluff potato topping with a fork. Bake at 375 degrees for about 40 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before cutting and serving.

6 If making ahead, refrigerate unbaked casserole until 65 minutes before serving time. Preheat oven to 375. Bake for 55 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes.