16 December 2022

Cannelés - A Small French Pastry That Originated in Bordeaux

Canneles - A Small French Pastry That Originated in Bordeaux / www.delightfulrepast.com

Cannelés
(sometimes spelled canelés, and pronounced CANuhLEE, actually not quite LEE and not quite LAY) have been on my must-make list for literally (and I don't use that word lightly) decades. 

But every time they occur to me happens to coincide with a time when I am trying mightily to not add another specialty item to my batterie de cuisine collection! Some of you know what I'm talking about, right?

As recently as perhaps 15 years ago, I would have only been satisfied with the very pricey individual tin-lined copper molds and would have gone to great lengths to procure food-grade beeswax to coat the interiors, etc, etc. Well, I am soooo over all that!

When my latest reminder of cannelés came from David at Cocoa and Lavender, well, I could hold out no longer and ordered the same pan he recently acquired. He started his blog at the same time I did, with recipes ranging from simple to complex, like mine; and a love of food that, like mine, goes back to his childhood and his mother's amazing cooking. He also has an allergy, like mine, to garlic! So naturally I assumed that I could trust his choice of cannelés molds.


Canneles - A Small French Pastry That Originated in Bordeaux / www.delightfulrepast.com


So I ordered a pan and started digging through my files, remembering that I had come up with a recipe many years ago that was a mishmash of ones I had looked at and added my own touches to. The main differences between recipes is in the baking time and temperature. 

Most call for at least the first 10 to 20 minutes at a very high (some as high as 500F/260C/Gas10) temperature. One recipe said to bake at 400F/205C/Gas6) for 2 hours! Really?! 

Every recipe I've seen calls for way more sugar than I like. First batch I made, I cut the sugar to 3/4 cup but found them still a bit too sweet (you won't!), so next time I went to 1/2 cup. It was plenty sweet enough for me, but it made the texture all wrong, no longer cannelés, so I'm going to stick with my original 3/4 cup.

One type of cannelés molds I never considered is the silicone. I have never tried a silicone baking "pan" of any kind. They just do not appeal to me in any way. If you like them, fine. But I just, no, just, no. A baking tin, or pan, should not be squishy!

A delightful after-dinner dessert or coffee go-with, cannelés are perfect for the afternoon tea table, along with Fruit Tartlets and petite Cream Puffs.  

So tell me, have you ever made cannelés? What kind of molds—silicone, tin-lined copper, other metal? What degree of caramelization do you prefer—golden, light brown, dark brown, black?


Canneles - A Small French Pastry That Originated in Bordeaux / www.delightfulrepast.com

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Cannelés


(Makes 12, if you're using the same size molds)

2 cups (16 fluid ounces/473 ml) milk
3 tablespoons (1.5 ounces/43 grams) unsalted butter
3/4 dip-and-sweep cup (5.25 ounces/106 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (5.25 ounces/149 grams) sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs (medium, in UK and some other places)
2 large egg yolks
1/4 cup (2 fluid ounces/59 ml) dark rum
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 In 1-quart saucepan, heat the milk and butter until the butter is melted and the milk is up to a simmer; do not boil.

2 In medium mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt vigorously for 1 minute to "sift."

3 Add the eggs, yolks, rum, and vanilla extract to the flour mixture and whisk vigorously until smooth. When smooth, whisk in the hot milk a third at a time. This ensures a lump-free batter that doesn't need straining.

4 Cover and refrigerate for 24 to 72 hours.

5 When ready to bake, put a sheet of aluminum foil on the shelf beneath the shelf you'll be placing the pan on (the foil will catch any butter drips) and preheat oven to 425F/220C/Gas7. In small bowl (microwave) or pan (stovetop), melt 2 teaspoons of solid shortening* and brush the molds with it.

* I keep a stick of Crisco in my refrigerator strictly for greasing certain pans. Many pans do a great job of releasing cakes that have been buttered, buttered and floured, oiled, or sprayed. But for pans that are molds (such as these and Bundt cakes), shortening always gives me a good result and does not gum up the pan as some oils do.

6 Whisk the batter a bit. If a skin has formed, just whisk it in. Fill each mold to within about 3/8 inch (1 cm) of the top.

Note: For this pan, I use a 1/3-cup measuring cup as a ladle to fill the molds with the 1/4 cup of batter they need. Using a 1/4-cup measuring cup as a ladle actually fills them with less than 1/4 cup due to the concave meniscus of the liquid (or something like that!). 

7 Place the cannelés pan in the preheated oven. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce heat to 375F/190C/Gas5 and bake for about 50 to 60 minutes, or until they are as deeply caramelized as you like them. Some people go for nearly black. Rotate pan halfway through for more even baking.

8 Turn the cannelés out onto a wire rack to cool. If any of the cannelés are not adequately or evenly caramelized, set them right side up on a small baking sheet and return them to the oven for 5 minutes or so. Allow them to cool for 2 hours before serving. This allows time for the exterior to crisp and the interior to set to the proper consistency. The crispy exterior will last for perhaps 6 hours. After that it will soften, and the cannelés will still be delicious but the characteristic crunch will be gone. They can be reheated and left to cool again to refresh them.

* Pan details: ChefMade WK9158 carbon steel 12-cup nonstick cannele mould, oven safe up to 450F/230C/Gas8, handwash only, made in China.

Disclosure: We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon .com and affiliated sites. We are a ThermoWorks affiliate, earning a small commission at no cost to you on purchases made through our links. This helps cover some of the costs of running the blog. Thank you for your support.

Jean

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49 comments:

Dee | GrammysGrid.com said...

Sounds interesting and that's a cool looking pan! I was shocked to read that the original recipes said 500F for 10-20 min or 400F for 2 hrs!! Thanks so much for linking up at the Unlimited Link Party 94. Shared.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Dee! Maybe some people need to have their ovens recalibrated! 😁

Dee | GrammysGrid.com said...

Uh, yes, could be.

acorn hollow said...

I have never heard of them and was expecting some kind of filling, I guess.
Cathy

ellen b. said...

Thanks for the Crisco tip! Those look delicious!

Marsha said...

Those look delicious and just like something my husband would like! Now, to buy a pan, some rum, and a million others things! Maybe after Christmas!


https://marshainthemiddle.com/

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Cathy, nope, no filling. The soft center and the outer crispy shell do it all! Happy December!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Ellen, thank you. That's the only thing I use Crisco for, greasing pans. Doesn't leave that sticky residue that sprays can leave.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Marsha. They're really easy because you have to stir up the batter a day or two ahead, then the day of your "event," you just pour it into the pan and there you have it!

Gail Is This Mutton? said...

Never heard of these but admire your tenacity in getting the right pan and pronunciation! I would love to try them. Thanks Jean for linking

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Gail. 😁 Yes, like my mother before me, I love experimenting in the kitchen.

Margaret Ullrich said...

Thank you, Jean, for sharing the recipe for Cannelés. I’ve never heard of them, and I’ll give your recipe a try in 2023. I’ve also never tried a silicone baking "pan”. There’s always something new to learn or try!
Wishing you a very Merry Christmas and all the best in 2023!

Amy Johnson said...

I've never heard of these before, but they look and sound delicious!

Lynn and Precious said...

They look so very lovely and tasty. I'm probably not a good enough baker/foodie to try this recipe. Therefore, I will enjoy your post and photo and think on the flavor, lol. A very Merry Christmas to you and yours. Lynn and Precious

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks so much, Margaret! I think you'll have a lot of fun with the recipe. I'm going to find more uses for the beautiful carbon steel canneles pan as well.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thank you, Amy. I love that crunchy shell and custardy interior, so will be making these often!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Lynn, thank you! But this is really quite an easy recipe that is still good, even when it doesn't turn out perfectly. Hope you and Precious have a wonderful 2023!

David Scott Allen said...

Well, ma chère amie, as they say — great minds think alike! Yours look beautiful. I love my ChefMade pan! Wishing you all the best for the holidays, Jean — unbridled happiness, great food, loving family & friends, and good health.

Phil in the Kitchen said...

I really do love these little treats and I must make some more of them soon. Yours look so lovely. I've made canelés (or cannelés) quite a few times in both steel and silicone moulds. I've had good results with both but, I must admit, that I find the silicone easier to use, despite being a very cheap purchase from a French supermarket. I know that some people have had problems getting a good result with silicone but, just a few weeks ago, I was watching a food show on French TV featuring a three-star-Michelin restaurant and they revealed that they always use silicone when making canelés because they find it easier and more reliable. Personally, I'm not sure that the type of pan makes quite as much of a difference as some writers have suggested. Have a lovely, enjoyable Christmas - tomorrow is likely to be a scurryfunge day for me in case of visitors.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thank you, David. Wishing you and yours a wonderful 2023—I love the sound of "unbridled happiness!"

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Phil. I agree, think you can get good results with any of the pans. Great word, scurryfunge. Had to look it up. Three words in and I knew it was a word my mother would have loved, too, and she was the master of the scurryfunge!

Lorrie said...

MMMM. These look delicious! Something else to add to my list of want-to-bakes! I have tried using silicone muffin cups and don't like them at all. The baked goods do not brown properly, nor crisp up, and unless turned out immediately they steam and get soggy. I've given them to my grandchildren for play.

Niky | The House on Silverado said...

You are right, Jean! I do love that pan! Niky

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Lorrie. AND for sharing your experience with silicone muffin cups. Glad you could pass them along to your grandchildren.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

I was afraid you would, Niky! 😁

NanaDiana said...

OMGOSH--They look SOOO good. I love baking this time of year but am pretty much done. I am saving this to try another time. Have a wonderful Merry Christmas, Jean! Hugs- Diana

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Diana, thank you! Try them next year (in 2 weeks!), right? Wishing you a wonderful 2023.

TONY said...

Iam totally up for some French pastries. These look very nice. From Bourdeux, like the wine? I must admit I am partial to a bottle of good Bourdeaux.
Marilyn and I have been visiting our new granddaughetr, Izzy, in Berlin over the last week. My goodness it was cold. The temperature fell to -10 degrees centigrade on most days. However we visted a couple of Christmas markets and ate some brillinat Stollen and drank some hot spicy gluhwein.Some more ideas for recipes there Jean. Anyway, I hope yourself and Mr Delightful have a wonderful Christmas and a Happy New Year. Lets all hope 2023 is going to see the world emerge from the terrible situation we are all in now.
Tony

Peabea Scribbles said...

I'm so boring, I never try different recipes, but these look interesting. Thanks for sharing with your photography. :)

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thank you, Tony! Yes,let's all of us everywhere have a wonderful 2023! I'm glad you and Marilyn got to visit Izzy, in spite of the weather, and enjoy some of the cuisine. Mulled wine is not for me, but you might see stollen here one day because, well, bread!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Oh, Peabea, I wouldn't call you boring! Thank you!

Dee | GrammysGrid.com said...

CONGRATS Jean! Your post is FEATURED at the Unlimited Link Party 95!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Dee! Much appreciated.

Karen @ Beatrice Euphemie said...

These look delicious, Jean, and I love that the degree of caramelization can be controlled because I like things light, but the Mr. is very much into dark and crunchy - so mine will come out of the oven first! I have a mini-Bundt pan that I think might work. Hope that you and your family have a lovely holiday and happy, healthy new year! x

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Karen, thanks so much. Do let me know how they turn out for you in the mini-Bundts! Wishing you and "the Mr." a wonderful 2023.

Thomas "Sully" Sullivan said...

Have I ever made cannelés? Hmmm. Lemme see…check through my culinary skills. Boiled water? Check. Heated soup. Check. Toasted toast in a toaster. Check? Cannelés, cannelés – nope! Never made cannelés. But it sounds like a winner. Somehow it reminds me of dulce de leche. Will be interested to see where this one goes. Merry, Merry!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Sully, thank you for weighing in! Though quite easy to make, there is a little finickiness to it, especially at the end, so it might not be the right culinary project for you. 😁 Happy Winter!

Richard Lee said...

Merry Christmas, Jean!

We bought the pan last week, mixed the batter two days ago, and saved the bake for Christmas morning. This recipe is a gem. Very clearly written, obviously well tested, and extremely easy to make. The result was perfect cannelés--crisp and caramelized on the outside and perfectly custardy on the inside. I wish I could attach a photo to this review! They're beautiful!

It looks like we have a new Christmas tradition.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Richard, thank you so much! AND thank you for taking the time today to tell me about it. I'm so glad you like them. I'm making more on Friday for a little "do." I, too, wish you could attach a photo.

Karen (Back Road Journal) said...

I'm glad that you took David's suggestion about the pan as your cannelés look perfect. I hope you had a wonderful Christmas Day.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Karen. I am too! Have a wonderful 2023.

Lowcarb team member said...

They look good :)
Many thanks for sharing the information and recipe.

Happy New Year Wishes.

All the best Jan

Hena Tayeb said...

I have never heard of or made canneles but they look delicious.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Jan! And I hope you have a really wonderful 2023.

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thank you, Hena. Served them to a small group a few days ago and not a single person had ever had one or even heard of them!

Jeff the Chef said...

You can't go wrong with inspiration like that. I love David's blog. Thanks for this interesting recipe!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks so much, Jeff. And, yes, David's blog *is* wonderful!

kitty@ Kitty's Kozy Kitchen said...

No, I’ve never made them nor heard of them, Jean. They look fabulous!

Jean | DelightfulRepast.com said...

Thanks, Kitty! They're such fun to make, too!